Matt In The Hat places pro on Lena’s Lieback (5.9)
on Swan Slab in Yosemite as Multi-pitch Matt belays.
Photo by Sarah Jane Alexander
The crack split the rock beautifully, creating a perfect space for climbers to dig in.
The relentless gash was intimidating. But so alluring.
I knew that route, Lena’s Lieback, would most likely spank me. It was two grades above my climbing level – in Yosemite, where the polish on many routes makes them treacherously slick, and sandbagged.
But I wanted that crack.
“I’m next,” I said when Multi-pitch Matt was off belay.
“Yeah!” he said.
“Yeah!” Matt In The Hat said.
“Yeah!” I said.
But I was feeling more like “no! no!” as in “no breath” and “no rest in sight” about halfway up.
“I’m gonna hangdog,” I shouted down, so new that I didn't know a single-word command for: “My lungs are gonna explode if I don’t rest! My forearms are gonna fall off! Take up the slack! Now! Now!”
“Do it, girl!” Matt In The Hat called. “There’s no shame in your game.”
With his help, giving me rest here and there, I ascended. When I reached the top, I was in a state of joyful disbelief.
I know a lot of climbers may say that if I had to hangdog, I didn’t climb it. Fine. Whatever. But I tried it even though I knew I was probably gonna get my ass kicked. Plus, I used my strength and technique at a level I never had before.
And I sure felt like I climbed it.
I was still catching my breath as I descended.
“Sarah, I can see every blood vessel in your arms,” Multi-pitch Matt said.
The blue zigzags glowed, beautifully swollen, beneath my pale skin. I was more pumped in that moment than I had ever been before. And effusive with joy.
“You guys!" I said when I was on the ground again. “That was the toughest physical act of my life!”
My friends good-naturedly congratulated me. They were much better climbers. However, they knew how deeply pleased I was even hangdogging that midgrade route.
But the biggest praise came that night as we sat around the campfire. Matt In The Hat was ruminating about the day.
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